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FURNITURE EVALUATION

DOVETAILS ON DRAWERS
In most cases I consider dovetail joints on all drawer side joints a prerequisite for quality construction.
A regular interlaced pattern is indicative of machine dovetails and can be expected on any case goods
up to about 120 years old. If a scribe mark is present and the tails are somewhat irregular they are probably
hand cut with a saw and chisels. This is not superior in and of itself but might be indicative of a much
older piece.

VENEER
I don't use veneer very much but don't consider it a sign of poor quality either. In fact some of the finest
furniture ever made was veneered. Some of the most figured woods have no structural integrity
at all and must be backed with a stronger material. Examples are crotches and burl.

There was a difference in the best veneered pieces though. The veneer was thick and sawn. Most modern
veneer is sliced from logs that have been steeped in very hot water for a period of time. The steeping and
slicing tend to give a parched appearance to the wood as compared to sawing. Modern sliced veneer is usually very thin- from 1/20 to 1/40 inch. Some woods fare better than others as sliced veneers. I have seen pretty nice
results with mahogany and walnut.

PLYWOOD
Plywood is great- for sheathing a roof!
O.K.- seeing plywood in a piece does not automatically qualify it as junk. After all it is a strong, stable
construction material. The plies have tiny microscopic cracks in them that act as expansion joints to
prevent warping. They unfortunately tend to prevent color subtleties as well. Plywood tends not to age gracefully.
Pay particular attention to plywood from the twenties or so that was held together with casein glue (milk protein).
This tends to fail with time.

I use lots of plywood....just not in furniture!

BAD REPAIRS
Look at legs, feet, and other high stress areas. Repairs are often precipitated by poor construction or
design. Dowels often fail. Bolts will inevitably loosen.Cross grain construction is also a culprit.
Solid wood shrinks and swells with the seasons in width but not in length.
When two pieces are joined length and width the widthwise piece must have a sliding joint
like a dovetail, loose frame, or wood button to accommodate the movement.
A solid wood dining table can easily grow or shrink an inch across its grain!

One note:Very old pieces often got away with some cross grain construction because there
was no central heating to dry out the wood and cause massive shrinkage. These have usually long
ago cracked.

Even if the repair was carefully done It will fail again if the construction is not proper.

IS REFINISHING BAD?
I have often heard from the experts that refinishing is death for highly collectable antiques and I think this
is usually true. But a wonderful old grand piano with badly alligatored varnish might benefit from a refinish.
It does take some know how to refinish an old piece without destroying the patina. If it is old check with
an expert before having it hot dip stripped and slathered with "danish oil". Cold chemical stripping is
much preferred but please note the chemicals for all strippers are toxic and the manufacturers safety
instructions should be followed carefully.

WHAT IS THAT FINISHED WITH?

Varnish-
Originally a compound of amber (fossilized tree sap) and a vegetable oil. Modern varnish is usually made from
synthetic resins like alkyd, phenolic, and urethanes. Varnish typically dries by oxidation and cannot be removed
by its thinner (mineral spirits or naptha) afterward. This fact can be used to test for vanishes on a small, hidden
section.

Lacquer-
Historically a nitrocellulose product sprayed on. Other types such as acrylics are common now. Lacquers yield
a clear beautiful finish particularly on light woods. Many veneered depression modern pieces are lacquered.
Lacquers will typically dissolve in their solvents (lacquer thinner)after they are dry. They are affected little by
mineral spirits or naptha.

Shellac-
Still one of the finest finishes available. Dissolves in its original solvent alcohol. It will soften in the presence
of heat or alkaline chemicals like ammonia or washing soda.

The most fabulous of the shellac based finishes is known as the french polish. It is applied by a pad in many
thin coats. The burnished sheen of the french polish is unique. This accounts for its use despite the extreme
expense.

Oils-
Usually linseed or tung oils (sometimes combined with varnish) that penetrate the wood. Often there is little
or no surface coat and this is a partial test. A really good oil finish is one of my favorites but requires extreme
surface preparation. The wood has to reach the point of almost shining before the oil goes on to get that great
tactile sheen.

Many "danish oil" finishes seen are simply a quickly sprayed on washcoat of a synthetic resin such
as catalyzed polyester. And they look it.

Oil is not the most durable but it can last forever because it is renewable. A very light coating can be
rubbed in- many recommend once a year. Remove any wax first with naptha or a solvent cleaner.

Water based and uv cured coatings-
found on most new factory furniture (even the expensive pieces). Most examples I see look just horrible.
I blame the application more than the material. Hazy, lumpy, shallow. A flattening agent is often used
to hide defects. Instant wood flavored formica effect.It is difficult to test for these compositions
but if it is new and looks bad--- well that is a hint!